Screen Printing Tutorial (X posted in Silkscreen)

So the reason I got into screen printing was that I thought girls would dig it if I said I designed clothing but it turns out I was totally wrong.


It's hard to meet the opposite sex and look cool when you've got hard to remove multicolored plastisol ink splotches all over your body that make you look like you have some sort of disease.


So here's a picture heavy basic tutorial on how I personally coat screens, burn screens, and print shirts. If you have any questions about anything let me know and I'll try to squeeze you in between cartoons and napping.




I've been printing for two or three years I don't remember anymore. The fumes from the ink remover have melted my brain. I haven't posted in here in a very long time so I thought I would make up for it with a giant entry.

This is one of my old shirts that I had to reprint because someone ordered it. It's Buddha rising out of a cocoon. Enjoy.



Machine: Printa 770 - 1) Emulsion Remover 2) Ink Remover 3) Ink Thinner 4) Liquid Adhesive 5) Haze Remover 6) Mesh Degreaser

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a) Screen - Know the mesh count of your screen. A higher mesh count picks up more detail in an image but does not let as much ink through when you print. (I use a 160 mesh count screen)

b) Emulsion - This is a photosensitive thick liquid used to coat a screen to create a stencil. (I use Ulano QTX)

c) Scoop - This is a metal trough used to apply the emulsion on a screen evenly.















I like to dry my screens for at least half an hour but it will vary depending on the humidity. To be safe I would say at least an hour. The machine I use has a cabinet for screens and uses a fan to dry them so it dries quicker.

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The print on the Transparency will be used to block light from hitting the emulsion on the screen. You can also use Vellum Paper but I like to use clear ones because I'm used to them. (I use Staples brand Transparency Paper. It's about $60 for 100 sheets)




3) Place your emulsion coated screen on top of the Transparency image then cover the screen with something so light doesn't bend around it. Use a weight to hold it down flat.

The time you leave it on the light box varies depending on image detail and your set up. I usually leave mine for 2:00 minutes because I use UV lights. It can take up to 30 minutes for a regular bulb. When light hits the emulsion it creates a chemical effect and "hardens."



The parts of the emulsion coated screen that were blocked by the ink on the Transparency Paper wash out because the light didn't harden it. If you burned the screen correctly the image should wash out in a few seconds. If you've done it incorrectly the emulsion will harden and the image won't wash out.

(I use a 25 gallon plastic trash can so I can wash screens in my garage during the day so I don't have to do it out in the sun light. I also like to use the flat setting on the nozzle to wash out the screen.)

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You might want to use some sort of liquid adhesive to hold your shirts down. I only it once in a while for multicolored shirts.



I like to make two passes with the squeegee. One to lay a coat of ink and another to push it through.




The time will vary depending on what you're using to dry your shirts for. I heat my shirts for 40 seconds. If you want to print a multicolored shirt you'll have to repeat all the processes of coating a screen, burning a screen, and printing an image for each additional color.



Whew. That was a ton of work. If you have any questions I'll be happy to answer them.

If you want to help me out you can buy some shirts. I need a new laptop. My computer sounds like it's about to explode.

All shirts are $20 with Free Shipping. They're printed on American Apparel shirts so they're a really soft fabric and a nice cut. I also draw, design, and print everything myself. Everything is limited print.

I'm going to go eat a whole pizza now.

Mark